What breeds roam these mountains? If you look around in summer, you’ll notice quite a variety, but with one clear common thread: the vast majority are native breeds, bred specifically to adapt to and withstand our harsh terrain.

Most are of the Bruna Alpina (Brown Swiss) breed, a proud breed with a uniform coat, distinguished by its milk, which is of unrivalled quality and yields exceptionally well when made into cheese. Alongside her is the Grigia Alpina, a hardy, robust breed that moves with ease even across the most rugged and extreme pastures.

Then there is the Pezzata Rossa, easily recognisable by its large red patches: a dual-purpose breed that our farmers particularly love for its incredible hardiness and adaptability. Of course, there is also the classic Holstein, the large black-and-white spotted breed, which, however, up here must show real grit to cope with the demands of mountain life. And finally, the small Jersey, with its beige coat and large eyes, which produces milk that is very rich in fat and protein.

And where do these animals live during the winter? This is another major difference from the lowlands. There are no intensive farms or industrial mega-facilities. Most of our members’ barns are still located on old mountain farms – historic buildings that blend seamlessly into the landscape.

It is precisely because of these historic buildings that even the milking process tells a story of respect. On most farms, although milking machines are used, milking is carried out directly by the farmer ‘at the stall’, that is, where the cow rests, or in small milking parlours. Just think: out of all our seventy members, only one has installed an automatic milking robot.

This shows just how vital the direct relationship between the farmer and his animals still is up here. They are not just numbers or production machines. The farmer knows his cows individually, recognises their behaviour and calls them by name. It is a daily bond built on eye contact, trust and mutual respect. And it is precisely the strength of this relationship that is reflected, intact, in the quality of the milk that we are about to see being processed.

We go downstairs, and the fresh milk straight from the barn finally meets the magic of the dairy…